If the question of Argentina belonging to the 3rd world is unresolved, it’s at least firmly planted in the 2nd.  Here are my notes from my recent ten days in the capital:

1. Financially things are still tough.
   • The peso is in flux, which creates multiple layers of complexity to doing financial transactions.
   • Inflation is on the rise: prices have risen almost everywhere (except transport) to match NY prices. According to my cousin, wages have gone up proportionally.
   • Coin crisis: You need change to ride the bus, only about 30 US cents, but coins are scarce. So much so that they can be sold for profit. No one has change.
   • It’s very expensive to buy electronics or clothing.
2. Police have improved, but can be potentially useless.
   • People aren’t so afraid of being kidnapped or harassed by police.
   • They have patrols now, if infrequent, and a 911 number like NY.
   • On the other hand, they answer directly to the Federal Government, causing problems. For example, a friend’s home intrusion alarm went off. When he got home a rep from the alarm company met him at the door, but refused to go in. There was a police man on the corner whom they approached, who also refused to go in. Aparently, he was being paid to watch that corner.
3. Security is still a problem.
   • Stickups remain common. A friend of ours was robbed at knife point while we were there.
   • People are still afraid to open store front businesses due to the high rate of stickups.
   • You have to LOCK all doors. Whether you’re inside or out.
   • When out in public, you must keep a close eye on your bag and personal effects. “Choros” (pick pockets) remain abundant.
   • On the other hand, kidnappings are now uncommon.
   • People decide not to live afraid.
4. The middle class is firmly right leaning.
5. Culturally, Bs As remains vital, mostly.
   • Cafe and night life remain vibrant.
   • The state of the art of Graffitti is maturing.
   • The art of drawing is well respected. You see many interesting sketches in the daily papers and in advertising.
   • Dogshit remains a problem.
   • While building remains strong, often, unfortunately to the detriment of beautiful historic architecture, most of the city is still very charming. The southern climate helps a lush abundance of old life trees thrive.
   • The “Asado” (barbeque) remains an essential stamp of hospitality. This time I tried “chinchulines” (lungs), kind gross, and “molleja” (a fatty, bacon-like throat gland), delicious! I passed on the raviolis de “seso” (brain).

Conclusion: Despite all it’s charm, it’s still dysfunctional on many levels. Under the right conditions however, it is still livable.

Tags: Buenos Aires, travel

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